26–29 March · 3 nights · the house

Yangshuo

Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, a villa on the Yulong. Bikes for five. Not West Street as a base. March is clearer than June. The rice is not flooded yet.

Li River Xingping Beer fish

Friday 26 March — the river house

Morning About 7 hours on the train from Zhangjiajie to Guilin.

Afternoon Car to the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat on the Yulong, not to West Street.

Evening Dinner at the house, or a village table they book. Not West Street.

Night River. Dark. This is why the house is here.

Saturday 27 March — the river

Morning Yulong raft, early, from the house. Xingping after, for the postcard.

Afternoon Xingping old town. One walk, one coffee, then out. One cave only if someone still has legs.

Evening Beer fish at the house. A cooking class if they can set it tonight.

Night No West Street. The lights will still be there tomorrow.

Sunday 28 March — the villages

Morning The countryside bike loop the retreat draws on a map. Villages, not the highway.

Afternoon Yangshuo town for the real shopping: a studio painting of the peaks, a silk scarf, one piece of silver. West Street is a walk through, not the buying.

Evening The long dinner. Village kitchen, not a hotel show.

Night River again. Pack for a city.

Monday 29 March — to Shanghai

Morning Breakfast outside. One last look. No added sight.

Afternoon Train, Guilin to Shanghai Hongqiao, 7 to 10 hours.

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